Normally when someone tells me they try to cater for everybody's tastes it means they really don't impress anyone. However, having spent an evening at The Ship in the company of the manager Oisin Rogers I actually think he gets it right.
Loving their crazy printed stuff...
Originally uploaded by Manne.
The Ship is a proper old pub, located near Wandsworth Bridge and wedged in between a concrete factory and a modern residential block. Originally built in 1786, the pub has only been in Oisin's caring hands for the past four years. From what I have heard he has really polished the place up from what it used to be, and today I'd call this a proper gem among London pubs. Clearly the people hanging out at beerintheevening.com agree as it is currently ranked 19 out of their 3,705 listed London venues.
Having discussed the merits of social media on Twitter where The Ship is @ShipWandsworth, I was cordially invited over to check the place out and try the food.
As I navigated the rather confusing streets from the train station to try and find the pub I was hoping for a really warm and cosy place with an open fire to drive the freezing cold from my shivering limbs. It was so cold this particular evening that ice had started forming on the water puddles along the way.
Once I found The Ship and walked through the doors I was not disappointed. Look of a properly worn in but lovingly cared for interior, check. Beautiful wall patterns in warm colours, check. Open fires spreading warmth and a homely smell of wood smoke mixed with tantalizing scents of food cooking in the open kitchen, check!
The first thing I noticed about The Ship was its size though. There is a small classic pub area which is walled off from the rest of the pub providing a quiet area for those so inclined. Once past that it opens up to two large areas: one conservatory like bar room with lots of tables and one very tidy dining room that seats up to 95 people, leading on to a sprawling outdoor terrace area with enough space to seat several hundred people overlooking the river.
As we walked through the outdoor area, where I before me saw friendly ghosts of Pimm's jugs and barbecues from summers past, Oisin pointed to a large wooden platform jutting out over the river. He explained that it actually shouldn't be there, it is built on top of Port of London Authority land. The previous owner built it 25 years ago and forgot to mention it to them... for about 15 years, and by then he effectively had squatting rights so there it sits. Somehow the idea of a pub spreading organically, like a moss growing over the ugly beams and flood gates of the Thames, appeals a lot to me. Give it another two decades and who knows how large those terraces may be?
Going back inside we talked a bit about the fact that The Ship very much feels like an independent. Even though it is owned by Young's there are no big brands shouting out anywhere, no annoying mass produced signs announcing great food deals and all those things I associate with chain run pubs today.
Happily agreeing Oisin explained that it is highly intentional, and that's the way he wants The Ship to remain. He also explained that it is important to him that anyone and everyone should be able to arrive at The Ship and find a place they like. Be it for the beer, a quiet place to read, the al fresco outdoor summer party life or the good food. As crazy as it may sound, I think he is doing the right thing and it seems to work well judging from the fact that pub area and dining room both were filled with a very diverse crowd.
A clue to what makes this work I think is the level of detail Oisin clearly cares about. As an example, go to The Ship and check out their toilets. Right now the inside toilets are being refurbished as they were... not up to standard as Oisin carefully put it. Meanwhile there are toilets outside for the guests to use. As I was told this I immediately dreaded the moment I had to go since the temperature outside clearly would make such a visit awful to the extreme. And portaloos? I have been to one festival too many to have any illusions about portable toilets.
However, as I eventually had to seek them out I found a caravan sized trailer with one door for ladies and one for gents. Sure, it was cold, but inside music was playing softly and the white walls sparkled. The deed done, I found very nice soap and even hand cream by the sinks, and as I pushed the button on the tap steaming warm water came pouring out! I tell you, if most restaurants and bars in London would have toilets half the quality of the "temporary" arrangement at The Ship London would be a better place!
While a few other invited guests arrived I ventured on into the private function room where we tonight were to be treated to a sushi master class by Ed Holmes who worked as sushi chef at Yo! Sushi back in the day (he now runs a chain called Chop'd selling soups and fresh salads). More about that in a separate post, suffice to say that any presentation that involves me eating freshly made sushi straight out of the hands of the chef scores high marks in my book.
Ed Holmes slicing up maki rolls while the head chef of The Ship makes sure he isn't rushed by the hungry crowd
Originally uploaded by Manne.
I was careful not to eat too much, as I was quite keen to sample the food from the restaurant. Before my visit I had found several of the usual suspect review sites with comments about the good food served up at The Ship. Apparently the Sunday roast is particularly good, as I would expect from any decent pub with ambition, will have to go back to try that.
Reading through the menu I found several things I wanted to try. While the food on selection is based on pretty traditional English dishes there are hints of influences from other parts of the world. Smoked paprika, bok choi, black sesame seeds... Good thing I brought Joakim, the Namibian Viking, along so I could sample more dishes than I could comfortably order for myself.
Scallops cooked very well, black pudding, fried quail egg: great combination of flavours and textures!
Originally uploaded by Manne.
A starter of seared scallops served with black pudding topped with a fried quail egg was suberp. Surrounded by a creamy celeriac puree presentation was very appealing and the combination of flavours brilliant. Never seen that mix of ingredients before, but I am already hoping I can get to try that again.The best dish of the whole evening!
Joakim had the pork belly rillette served with a pear terrine, pear cider jelly and a mustard dressing. Judging from how quickly he put that away I'd say it was a hit. Didn't even get to taste it! It looked great though, clearly presentation is given a lot of consideration in the kitchen of The Ship.
Moving on to the mains I ordered the crispy pork belly with bok choi and braised red cabbage, which is supposed to be one of the top dishes here. Joakim went for a trio of duck: caramelized honey duck breast, roast drumstick, confit thigh served with beetroot, baby potatoes and a citrus jus.
My pork belly was alright, although I would have liked the skin a bit crispier and the braised cabbage a bit lighter. The duck however was fantastic. Confit thigh was succulent, aromatic and packed with flavour. Next time I will definitely order that myself.
Not being big on desserts we simply ended with a cup of remarkably good espresso and then went on to sample the whiskys and beers with Oisin and Ed... Which I three hours later sort of regretted as it dawned on me that getting back to Peckham from Wandsworth after midnight is a mission and a half!
Thank you very much to Oisin, Charlie and Emma who all work hard to make The Ship a lovely place. Thanks to Ed for a really interesting presentation on sushi making.
From the homeliness inside to the surreal signature image of a captain with fish for hands on their collateral The Ship is a place well worth going a bit out of your way for.
Bonus-URL: Turn Around by Bonnie Tyler as a flow chart...
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